Saturday, February 4, 2017

CROCHET PATTERN - Vintage Garden Afghan Square

 
This 12” block features a lovely floral center, and will look beautiful in any combination of colors!  I hope you enjoy crocheting it! :)

Materials:  US Size J/10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors

Yarn:  Lion Brand Vanna's Choice worsted weight yarn (3.5 oz/170 yds): ½ skein each Linen (A), Olive (B) and Taupe (C).

Size:  12” square

Gauge:  6 dc and 3 rows = 2”

Difficulty:  Easy

Stitch Guide:  ch - chain, dc - double crochet, RS - right side, sc - single crochet, sl st - slip stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), yo - yarn over

Special Stitches: 

2-dc CL (2 double crochet cluster) = [yo, insert hook in indicated space and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

3-dc CL (3 double crochet cluster) = [yo, insert hook in indicated space and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops] three times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

FPdc (front post double crochet) = yo, insert hook from front to back to front around indicated st and pull up loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice.

FPtr (front post treble crochet) = yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around indicated st and pull up loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops] three times.

Notes:
  1.  Beginning ch-3 counts as 1st dc of round. 
  2.  Keep RS facing throughout.

Instructions:

With A, make magic ring.

Round 1:  Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch-1 now and throughout), [dc, ch 1] in ring 7 times, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4 — 8 dc, 8 ch-1 spaces.

Round 2:  Sl st into next ch-1 space, ch 2, 2-dc CL in same space, ch 2, *3-dc CL in next ch-1 space, ch 2; repeat from * around, sl st to top of 1st CL—8 CL, 8 ch-2 spaces. Fasten off A.

Round 3:  Join B with sl st in any ch-2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, ch 2, *3 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2; repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3—24 dc, 8 ch-2 spaces.

Round 4:  Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, FPtr around CL from Round 2, ch 1, *dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, FPtr around CL from Round 2, ch 1; repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3—24 dc, 8 tr, 16 ch-1 spaces.

*Circle should now measure 5” across.

Round 5:  Ch 2, 2-dc CL over next 2 dc, ch 5, skip FPtr, *3-dc CL over next 3 dc, ch 5, skip FPtr; repeat from * around, sl st to top of 1st CL—8 CL, 8 ch-5 spaces. Fasten off B.

*Round 5 will curl up. It will straighten out after Round 6, and will be perfect after blocking.

Round 6:  Join C in any ch-5 space, ch 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in same space, FPdc around CL, 7 dc in next ch-5 space, FPdc around CL, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-5 space, FPdc around CL, 7 dc in next ch-5 space, FPdc around CL; repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3—68 dc, 4 ch-2 spaces. Fasten off C.




Round 7:   Join A with sl st in any corner ch-2 space, ch 4, [dc, ch 1] 3 times in same corner space, *[skip 1 dc, dc in next, ch 1] 8 times**, [dc, ch 1] 4 times in corner ch-2 space; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4—48 dc, 48 ch-1 spaces.

Round 8:  Sl st into next ch-1 space, ch 2, 2-dc CL in same space, [ch 2, 3-dc CL in next ch-1 space] twice, *ch 1, [dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 9 times**, [3-dc CL in next ch-1 space, ch 2] twice, 3-dc CL in next ch-1 space; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, sl st to top of 1st CL—12 CL, 36 dc, 40 ch-1 spaces, 8 ch-2 spaces. Fasten off A.

*Square should now measure 9” across.

Round 9:  Join B with sl st in next ch-2 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 1, *[2 dc in next ch-1 space] 10 times, ch 1**, 3 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 1; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3—104 dc, 8 ch-1 spaces, 4 ch-2 spaces.

Round 10:  Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 2, FPtr around CL from Round 8, ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, FPtr around CL from Round 8, dc in next 20 dc, FPtr around CL from Round 8,** dc in next 3 dc; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3—104 dc, 12 tr, 8 ch-2 spaces. Fasten off B.

Round 11:  Join C with a sc in any corner tr, (ch 1, sc) in same st, 2 sc in next ch-2 space, *sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 space**, (sc, ch 1, sc) in tr, 2 sc in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, sl st to 1st sc—136 sc, 4 ch-1 spaces. Fasten off C.

Finishing:  Weave in all ends.  Block to 12” square.




 © 2017 Danyel Pink.  You may sell what you make, but please credit Danyel Pink Designs for the pattern. You may NOT resell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it elsewhere online, or alter it to claim it as your own. Please provide a link back to my blog instead.  Contact me with any questions or for pattern support.

Saturday, January 21, 2017

CROCHET PATTERN - Little Gnome Chinstrap Hat


This sweet, little hat gently frames your baby’s face with a pop of color. It’s a quick & easy project, and can be embellished in many ways.
The Little Gnome Chinstrap Hat is a great baby shower gift and photography prop for little boys or girls.

Yarn:  Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn worsted weight yarn (7 oz/355 yds): ½ skein each of Color A and Color B.

Materials:  US Size I/9 (5.5 mm) and H/8 (5.0 mm) crochet hooks, stitch marker, 5/8” button, yarn needle, scissors

Sizes/Measurements:  Newborn, 0-3 Months, and 3-6 Months
Newborn = 13-13.5” head circumference, 5.5” hat height
0-3 Months = 14-15” head circumference, 6.25” hat height
3-6 Months = 15-16” head circumference, 6.75” hat height

Gauge:  12 HDC and 10 Rows = 4”

Difficulty:  Easy

Stitch Guide:  CA/CB - Color A/Color B, CH - chain, HDC - half double crochet, RS - right side, SC - single crochet, SL ST - slip stitch, ST - stitch

Notes: 
  1. Hat is worked from back of the hat to the front. 
  2. Newborn size is for babies less than 2 weeks old. Most new babies will fit into the 0-3 month hat comfortably. 
  3. “Join with a SC” = Put slip knot on hook, insert hook into desired ST, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
Instructions:

Newborn
With I/9 hook and CA, CH 17.
Row 1 (mark as RS): HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across, continue working “up and over” by making one HDC in each CH on opposite side of starting ch, CH 1, turn—32 HDC.
*Working around the starting chain forms the top peak of the hat. All subsequent rows are worked in the same manner.
Rows 2–9: HDC in each HDC across, CH 1, turn—32 HDC.
Row 10: HDC in each HDC across, fasten off—32 HDC.
Row 11: With RS facing, join CB with a SC to last ST of Row 10, SC in each HDC across, CH 16, turn—32 SC + 16 CH.
Row 12: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in next 14 CH, SC in each SC across, CH 1, turn—47 SC.
Rows 13–14: SC in each SC across, CH 1, turn—47 SC.
*Optional: Switch to H/8 hook for final row. This slightly tightens the last row, allowing edge to gently frame the face.
Row 15: SC in each SC across, 2 SC in corner ST, 1 SC in the end of each row, fasten off—51 SC.
Sew button near end of chinstrap on RS. Slide button in between stitches of Rows 13 and 14 to fasten in a comfortable position.

0-3 Months
With I/9 hook and CA, CH 19.
Row 1 (mark as RS): HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across, continue working “up and over” by making one HDC in each CH on opposite side of starting ch, CH 1, turn—36 HDC.
*Working around the starting chain forms the top peak of the hat. All subsequent rows are worked in the same manner.
Rows 2–9: HDC in each HDC across, CH 1, turn—36 HDC.
Row 10: HDC in each HDC across, fasten off—36 HDC.
Row 11: With RS facing, join CB with a SC to the last ST of Row 10, SC in each HDC across, CH 16, turn—36 SC + 16 CH.
Row 12: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in next 14 CH, SC in each SC across, CH 1, turn—51 SC.
Rows 13–14: SC in each SC across, CH 1, turn—51 SC.
*Optional: Switch to H/8 hook for final row. This slightly tightens the last row, allowing edge to gently frame the face.
Row 15: SC in each SC across, 2 SC in corner ST, 1 SC in the end of each row, fasten off—55 SC.
Sew button near end of chinstrap on RS. Slide button in between stitches of Rows 13 and 14 to fasten in a comfortable position.


3-6 Months
With I/9 hook and CA, CH 20.
Row 1 (mark as RS): HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across, continue working “up and over” by making one HDC in each CH on opposite side of starting ch, CH 1, turn—38 HDC.
*Working around the starting chain forms the top peak of the hat. All subsequent rows are worked in the same manner.
Rows 2–10: HDC in each HDC across, CH 1, turn—38 HDC.
Row 11: HDC in each HDC across, fasten off—38 HDC.
Row 12: With RS facing, join CB with a SC to the first ST of Row 11, SC in each HDC across, CH 18, turn—38 SC + 18 CH.
Row 13: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in next 16 CH, SC in each SC across, CH 1, turn—55 SC.
Rows 14–15: SC in each SC across, CH 1, turn—55 SC.
*Optional: Switch to H/8 hook for final row. This slightly tightens the last row, allowing edge to gently frame the face.
Row 16: SC in each SC across, 2 SC in corner ST, 1 SC in the end of each row, fasten off—59 SC.
Sew button near end of chinstrap on RS. Slide button between stitches of Rows 14 and 15 to fasten in a comfortable position.

Other Suggestions

  • Work stitches in back loops for a ribbed hat. 
  • Leave off the chinstrap & add braids or ribbons to the front corners to make a bonnet. 
  • Work entire hat in one solid color, or try variegated or self-striping yarns. 
  • Add a pom pom or tassel to the peak of the hat. 
  • Work the final row using fun fur for a fuzzy edging.




 © 2012/2017 Danyel Pink.  You may sell what you make, but please credit Danyel Pink Designs for the pattern. You may NOT resell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it elsewhere online, or alter it to claim it as your own. Please provide a link back to my blog instead.  Contact me with any questions or for pattern support.

Tuesday, January 17, 2017

CROCHET PATTERN - Square Tile Coasters

These little coasters are quick and fun to crochet, and are a great stashbuster project.  I use mine on my desk for my coffee mugs and iced tea glasses.  They also work very well as face cloths or mini washcloths for kids!

Yarn:  Red Heart Creme de la Creme worsted weight cotton (2.5 oz/125 yds): 1 ball each Royal Blue (A) and Fudge Brown (B)

Materials:  US Size G/6 (4.0mm) crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors

Difficulty:  Easy

Size:  Approx. 4” square

Gauge:  Not critical for this project.

Stitch Guide:  ch(s) - chain(s), sc - single crochet, sl st - slip stitch, st - stitch

Notes: 
  1. Beginning ch-1 of each row does not count as a st. 
  2. Change colors by working last stitch of previous color to last 2 loops on hook, then yo and pull new color through. 
  3. Work over unused color throughout, for stability and ease. 
  4. To make a larger coaster or placemat, work starting ch in multiples of 4 + 1, and work checkerboard pattern to desired length.


Instructions:


With A, ch 17.
Row 1: Working in back bumps of chs, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3, with B sc in next 4, with A sc in next 4, with B sc in next 4—16 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, [with B sc in next 4, with A sc in next 4] twice—16 sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, [with A sc in next 4, with B sc in next 4] twice—16 sc.
Rows 4–5: Repeat Row 2.
Row 6: Repeat Row 3.
Row 7: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 8–9: Repeat Row 3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Row 11: Repeat Row 3.
Rows 12–13: Repeat Row 2.
Row 14: Repeat Row 3.
Row 15: Repeat Row 2.
Row 16: Repeat Row 3.

Finishing
Round 1: With A or B, ch 1, turn, sc evenly across, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in corner st, sc evenly across side; repeat from * around, ch 1, sl st to 1st sc to join.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Block square if needed.





 © 2016/2017 Danyel Pink.  You may sell what you make, but please credit Danyel Pink Designs for the pattern. You may NOT resell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it elsewhere online, or alter it to claim it as your own. Please provide a link back to my blog instead.  Contact me with any questions or for pattern support.

Friday, August 26, 2016

KNITTING PATTERN - Sharyl Headwrap

Knit headwraps are so popular! Knit your own in any color or brand of yarn you like!

Materials:  US size 8 (5.0 mm) straight needles, US size G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook, stitch marker, yarn needle, scissors, 1” button

Yarn: Approximately 75-80 yards of Worsted Weight Yarn. Sample shown using Loops & Threads Impeccable Glitter.

Sizes:  Toddler (18–19”), Child (20–21”) and Adult (22–23”)

Gauge:  18 STS and 28 rounds = 4” in [K1, P1] pattern stitch

Difficulty:  Easy

Stitch Guide:  CO - cast on, K -  knit, K2TOG - knit 2 together, KFB - knit in front and back, M1 - make 1 (increase), P - purl, P2TOG - purl 2 together, ST(S) - stitch(es)

Notes:
  1. The length of the headwrap is adjustable in the pattern.  If making toddler size, you may want to use smaller needles.
  2. This headband is knit in a K1/P1 rib.  In the increase/decrease sections, I highly suggest using a stitch marker and/or stitch counter to keep track of the increase and decrease rows.
  3. When the pattern calls for M1, I recommend using the “backwards loop cast-on” method OR “make one left” method.  For tutorials on these stitches, please visit www.knittinghelp.com 


Instructions (all sizes):

CO 8.  (Start with long tail, then use it to sew on button at the end.)
Row 1:  [K1, P1] across—8 STS.
*Increase Section
Row 2:  [K1, P1] twice, M1, [K1, P1] twice—9 STS.
Row 3:  [K1, P1] twice, KFB in the M1, [K1, P1] twice—10 STS.
Rows 4–5:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 6:  [K1, P1] twice, K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] twice—11 STS.
Row 7:  [K1, P1] twice, K1, KFB in the M1, P1, [K1, P1] twice—12 STS.
Rows 8–9:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 10:  [K1, P1] three times, M1, [K1, P1] three times—13 STS.
Row 11:  [K1, P1] three times, KFB in the M1, [K1, P1] three times—14 STS.
Rows 12–13:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 14:  [K1, P1] three times, K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] three times—15 STS.
Row 15:  [K1, P1] three times, K1, KFB in the M1, P1, [K1, P1] three times—16 STS.
Rows 16–17:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 18:  [K1, P1] four times, M1, [K1, P1] four times—17 STS.
Row 19:  [K1, P1] four times, KFB in the M1, [K1, P1] four times—18 STS.
Rows 20–21:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 22:  [K1, P1] four times, K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] four times—19 STS.
Row 23:  [K1, P1] four times, K1, KFB in the M1, P1, [K1, P1] four times—20 STS.
Rows 24–25:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 26:  [K1, P1] five times, M1, [K1, P1] five times—21 STS.
Row 27:  [K1, P1] five times, KFB in the M1, [K1, P1] five times—22 STS.
Rows 28–29:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 30:  [K1, P1] five times, K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] five times—23 STS.
Row 31:  [K1, P1] five times, K1, KFB in the M1, P1, [K1, P1] five times—24 STS.
Rows 32–33:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 34:  [K1, P1] six times, M1, [K1, P1] six times—25 STS.
Row 35:  [K1, P1] six times, KFB in the M1, [K1, P1] six times—26 STS.
Rows 36–37:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 38:  [K1, P1] six times, K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] six times—27 STS.
Row 39:  [K1, P1] six times, K1, KFB in the M1, P1, [K1, P1] six times—28 STS.
Rows 40–41:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 42:  [K1, P1] seven times, M1, [K1, P1] seven times—29 STS.
Row 43:  [K1, P1] seven times, KFB in the M1, [K1, P1] seven times—30 STS.   
(Piece should measure about 8” here.)
Continue working straight K1/P1 ribbing for 1-2” for Toddler size, 2-3” for Child size, or 3-4” for Adult size.
*Decrease Section
Row 1:  [K1, P1] seven times, K2TOG, [K1, P1] seven times—29 STS.
Row 2:  [K1, P1] six times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] seven times—28 STS.
Rows 3–4:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 5:  [K1, P1] six times, K1, K2TOG, P1, [K1, P1] six times—27 STS.
Row 6:  [K1, P1] six times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] six times—26 STS.
Rows 7–8:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 9:  [K1, P1] six times, K2TOG, [K1, P1] six times—25 STS.
Row 10:  [K1, P1] five times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] six times—24 STS.
Rows 11–12:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 13:  [K1, P1] five times, K1, K2TOG, P1, [K1, P1] five times—23 STS.
Row 14:  [K1, P1] five times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] five times—22 STS.
Rows 15–16:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 17:  [K1, P1] five times, K2TOG, [K1, P1] five times—21 STS.
Row 18:  [K1, P1] four times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] five times—20 STS.
Rows 19–20:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 21:  [K1, P1] four times, K1, K2TOG, P1, [K1, P1] four times—19 STS.
Row 22:  [K1, P1] four times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] four times—18 STS.
Rows 23–24:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 25:  [K1, P1] four times, K2TOG, [K1, P1] four times—17 STS.
Row 26:  [K1, P1] three times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] four times—16 STS.
Rows 27–28:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 29:  [K1, P1] three times, K1, K2TOG, P1, [K1, P1] three times—15 STS.
Row 30:  [K1, P1] three times, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] three times—14 STS.
Rows 31–32:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 33:  [K1, P1] three times, K2TOG, [K1, P1] three times—13 STS.
Row 34:  [K1, P1] twice, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] three times—12 STS.
Rows 35–36:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 37:  [K1, P1] twice, K1, K2TOG, P1, [K1, P1] twice—11 STS.
Row 38:  [K1, P1] twice, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] twice—10 STS.
Rows 39–40:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 41:  [K1, P1] twice, K2TOG, [K1, P1] twice—9 STS.
Row 42:  K1, P1, K1, P2TOG, [K1, P1] twice—8 STS.
Row 43:  [K1, P1] across.
Row 44:  K1, P1, K2TOG, M1, M1, P2TOG, K1, P1.  (M1 using “backwards loop cast-on”.  Buttonhole made.)
Rows 45–46:  [K1, P1] across.
Bind off in K1/P1, weave in ends.  Use starting tail to sew button to end opposite of buttonhole.

Crochet Rose
If you don’t crochet, there is a great collection of free knit flower patterns available at: www.knittingpatterncentral.com
*V-ST (V-stitch) = (DC, CH 1, DC) in same stitch.
Using G hook and any color WW yarn, CH 41.
Row 1:  V-ST in 3rd CH from hook, *CH 1, skip 1 ST, V-ST in next CH; repeat from * to last 2 STS, HDC in last CH—19 V-ST made.
Row 2:  CH 1, turn, 6 DC into V-ST, *SL ST into CH-1 space, CH 1, 6 DC into V-ST; repeat from * to end of row, SL ST into beginning CH-3 from previous row  and fasten off leaving a 12-14” tail—19 petals made.
Using long tail & yarn needle, carefully roll rose along starting chain and stitch petals into place.

Stitch rose onto headwrap.  Enjoy!

Other Suggestions:
  • Crochet around edge of headwrap to make it wider & give it a contrasting trim.
  • Use self-striping or variegated yarns for a fun, colorful headwrap.
  • Embellish it with buttons, patches, bows, ribbon, or appliqu├ęs instead.
  • Sew your flower onto a clip or safety pin to make it removable; wear it on a scarf, coat, or sweater.




 © 2013/2016 Danyel Pink.  You may sell what you make, but please credit Danyel Pink Designs for the pattern. You may NOT resell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it elsewhere online, or alter it to claim it as your own. Please provide a link back to my blog instead.  Contact me with any questions or for pattern support.

Monday, August 8, 2016

CROCHET PATTERN - Elf Hat

This striped stocking cap is an adorable photography prop and a perfect holiday accessory for the whole family!  Whip one up in any size from Preemie through XL Adult!

Materials:  US Size I/9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors

Yarn:  1 or more colors of Worsted Weight yarn. 100-200 yards total.  Samples shown using Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn.

Sizes:  Preemie — XL Adult. Pattern includes measurements and indicates where to stop for each size.

Gauge:  14 DC and 8 rounds = 4”

Difficulty:  Easy

Stitch Guide:  CH(S) - chain(s), DC - double crochet, SC - single crochet, SL ST - slip stitch, ST(S) - stitch(es)

Notes:
  1. The CH-2 at the beginning of each row is NOT a ST. Join each round to top of the 1st DC. Work solid hats continuously, if you prefer. 
  2. I have not indicated where to change colors. Make your stripes however you like. 
  3. I recommend changing colors at the join. Complete the SL ST at the end of each round with the new color. 
  4. Do not fasten off at each color change. Carry unused yarns loosely along inside of hat. 
  5. When you have reached the size you want to make, continue to page 3 for finishing instructions.


Instructions:

All Sizes:  start with Magic Ring.
Round 1:  CH 2, 6 DC in ring, join—6 DC.
Round 2:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 2, 2 DC in next) twice, join—8 DC.
Round 3:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 3, 2 DC in next) twice, join—10 DC.
Round 4:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 4, 2 DC in next) twice, join—12 DC.
Round 5:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 5, 2 DC in next) twice, join—14 DC.
Round 6:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 6, 2 DC in next) twice, join—16 DC.
Round 7:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 7, 2 DC in next) twice, join—18 DC.
Round 8:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 8, 2 DC in next) twice, join—20 DC.
Round 9:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 9, 2 DC in next) twice, join—22 DC.
Round 10:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 10, 2 DC in next) twice, join—24 DC.
Round 11:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 11, 2 DC in next) twice, join—26 DC.
Round 12:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 12, 2 DC in next) twice, join—28 DC.
Round 13:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 13, 2 DC in next) twice, join—30 DC.
Round 14:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 14, 2 DC in next) twice, join—32 DC.
Round 15:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 15, 2 DC in next) twice, join—34 DC.
Round 16:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 16, 2 DC in next) twice, join—36 DC. ← End here for Preemie (12” head circ.)
Round 17:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 17, 2 DC in next) twice, join—38 DC.  
Round 18:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 18, 2 DC in next) twice, join—40 DC.
Round 19:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 19, 2 DC in next) twice, join—42 DC. ← End here for Newborn (13” head circ.)
Round 20:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 20, 2 DC in next) twice, join—44 DC. ← End here for 0-3 Months (14-15” head circ.)
Round 21:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 21, 2 DC in next) twice, join—46 DC. ← End here for 3-6 Months (15-16” head circ.)
Round 22:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 22, 2 DC in next) twice, join—48 DC. ← End here for 6-9 Months (16-17” head circ.)
Round 23:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 23, 2 DC in next) twice, join—50 DC. ← End here for 9-12 Months (17-18” head circ.)
Round 24:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 24, 2 DC in next) twice, join—52 DC.
Round 25:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 25, 2 DC in next) twice, join—54 DC. ← End here for 1-3 Years (18-20” head circ.)
Round 26:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 26, 2 DC in next) twice, join—56 DC. ← End here for 4-8 Years (20-21” head circ.)
Round 27:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 27, 2 DC in next) twice, join—58 DC. ← End here for Pre-teen (21-22” head circ.)
Round 28:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 28, 2 DC in next) twice, join—60 DC. ← End here for Adult (22-23” head circ.)
Round 29:  CH 2, (1 DC in next 29, 2 DC in next) twice, join—62 DC. ← End here for XL Adult (23-24” head circ.)

For PREEMIE hats, work 1 additional round of DC (no increase).
For NEWBORN, 0-3 MONTHS, and 3-6 MONTHS, work 2 additional rounds of DC (no increase).
For 6-9 MONTHS and 9-12 MONTHS, work 3 additional rounds of DC (no increase). 
For 1-3 YEARS and 4-8 YEARS, work 4-5 additional rounds of DC (no increase).
For PRE-TEEN, ADULT, and XL ADULT, work 6-7 additional rounds of DC (no increase).  


Fasten off and continue to preferred Edging.

Ribbed (FPDC and BPDC) Edging
With right side facing and using same color as last round worked (to avoid a weird color-change line), join at back seam and CH 2 (not a ST), alternate FPDC (front post DC) and BPDC (back post DC) in each ST around, join to 1st ST.  Repeat for 3-4 rounds.  Fasten off.

Rope (RSC) Edging
With right side facing, join yarn at back seam, work 1-2 additional rounds of DC, then switch colors, CH 1, work RSC (reverse SC) in each ST around.  Join and fasten off.

Simple SC Edging
With right side facing, join yarn at back seam and SC evenly around for 2-3 rounds.  Join and fasten off.

Tassel/Braid
Cut six 18-24” lengths of yarn.  Insert crochet hook in between STS at tip of hat and pull yarn through.  Divide yarn into groups of 4 and braid neatly.  Knot end and trim evenly.

Other Suggestions...
  • Other yarns that will work well:  Cascade 220, Red Heart Soft, Vanna’s Choice, Loops & Threads Impeccable, Caron Simply Soft
  • For an extra long elf hat:  After Round 2, work several rounds of DC (no increase) before continuing on to Round 3.
  • Try variegated or self-striping yarns for a fun, colorful elf hat.
  • Leave off the braid & add a pom pom to the tip for a cute “Santa” hat instead.
 



 © 2009/2016 Danyel Pink.  You may sell what you make, but please credit Danyel Pink Designs for the pattern. You may NOT resell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it elsewhere online, or alter it to claim it as your own. Please provide a link back to my blog instead.  Contact me with any questions or for pattern support.


Thursday, July 21, 2016

CROCHET PATTERN - Blackberry Dishcloth

The “blackberries” on this simple cloth give it extra scrubbing power!  The Blackberry stitch is fun and easy to crochet, using only chains and single crochet stitches.

Materials:  US size H/8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors

Yarn:  Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton worsted weight yarn (5 oz/180 yds): ½ skein #250 Amethyst

Size:  Approx. 8” square

Gauge:  7 sc and 9 rows = 2” (not critical)

Difficulty:  Easy

Stitch Guide:  ch - chain(s), RS - right side, sc - single crochet, sl st - slip stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), yo - yarn over

Special Stitch
BB (Blackberry) = draw up loop in next sc, (yo, draw through last loop on hook) 3 times, keeping ch-3 just made to front of work, yo and draw through both loops on hook.

Notes:
  1.  The ch-1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a st. 
  2.  To make cloth larger or smaller, work a foundation ch in multiples of 2 + 1 and work pattern repeats as desired. 
  3.  Any worsted weight cotton will work well for this cloth.
Instructions:

Ch 27.
Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—26 sc.
Row 2 (RS):  Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *BB in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across to last sc, sc in last, turn—12 BB, 14 sc.
Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn—26 sc.
Row 4:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 2 sc, *BB in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn—12 BB, 14 sc.
Row 5:  Repeat Row 3.
Rows 6–29:  Repeat Rows 2–5.  Turn and continue to Trim.



Trim
Ch 1, 3 sc in 1st sc, *sc evenly across end of to last sc, 3 sc in corner, rotate to work along side, skip 1 row end, (2 sc in next, skip 1 row end) along side to corner, 3 sc in corner, rotate to work along end; repeat from * to beginning of Trim, sl st to 1st sc.  
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Other Suggestions...
  • Use a fun variegated or self-striping yarn for a colorful cloth.
  • Try different borders to make your cloth unique.
  • Use a larger hook and 2 strands of yarn to make a thick hot pad.
  • Add a hanging loop by working a chain in one corner.



 © 2016 Danyel Pink.  You may sell what you make, but please credit Danyel Pink Designs for the pattern. You may NOT resell the pattern, distribute it in any form, post it elsewhere online, or alter it to claim it as your own. Please provide a link back to my blog instead.  Contact me with any questions or for pattern support.

Sunday, April 24, 2016

KNITTING PATTERN - Maria Cowl

Slouchy cowls are stretchy, comfortable & warm... and SUPER easy to make. Pick out your favorite yarn, sit down with a good movie & whip one up for yourself!

Yarn:  Approximately 200 yards of Worsted Weight yarn.  Modeled sample shown using JoAnn Sensations Tropics.

Materials:  Size 11 (8.0 mm) 16” circular needles, stitch marker, yarn needle, scissors

Sizes:  To fit Child (Adult); 10 (12)” tall x 19 (22)” circumference

Gauge:  13 STS and 16 rounds = 4”

Difficulty:  Beginner

Stitch Guide:  CO - cast on, K - knit, P - purl, ST(S) - stitch(es)

Notes:
  1. If you don’t feel comfortable with your purling skills, feel free to knit the whole thing. 
  2. If you want your cowl longer/shorter, knit more/fewer rounds. If you want it a bit tighter, use smaller needles. 


Instructions:

CO 60 (70).

Round 1:  (K4, P1) around. (Place stitch marker to mark beginning of round.)

Rounds 2—40 (50):
 (K4, P1) around.
(Child cowl should measure about 10” & Adult cowl should measure about 12”.)

Bind off in pattern stitch. 
Weave in ends.

Other Suggestions:
  • (recommended) Crochet around edge of cowl to give it a nice finished edging, and to prevent curling. 
  • Use self-striping or variegated yarns for a fun, colorful cowl. 
  • Sew flowers or buttons, pin brooches, or add ribbons to your cowl to make it unique. 
  • Try different Knit/Purl combinations for different textures. (e.g. K5, P5 or K3, P2)